If it runs, then dies, try pumping the bulb while it is running and see if it improves if it does then replace the fuel pump. Sometimes it is best to rebuild the carburetor even if it is just the fuel pump. Another thing to look for that is many times overlooked, is the neoprene O-Ring on the inside of the fuel line connectors. Common problem, cheap fix. These O-Rings are inside the connector encompassed in a inner groove right at the outer end of the stainless steel shut-off ball. You will not be able to see how bad they are until you take it out. The are usually not strictly OMC priority so you can probably pick replacements up a at an automotive store or even a well stocked hardware store, by comparing to the old size that was removed. If you can not find the exact same size, then opt for one that is the same OD but thicker. You may then have to grease this before you try to couple it to the motor or tank. These O-Rings can get nicked or scratched just enough to not seal completely and being under a vacuum, can leak air, therefore not allow fuel to be sucked to the carburetor.
This is one item that is overlooked many times in tracing down a fuel problem. These are worth replacing because they may seal under pressure when you pump up the bulbbut leak under suction from the fuel pump. Cheap and easy maintenance item, and might solve help you from chasing your tail. The O-Ring on the right is badly chewed up internally. Check ALL fuel connections for leaks or cracks in the fuel line. I once found one that had a small crack UNDER the clamp, if you put the clamp back on exactly in the right place it would seal, but if it was slightly different location, then there was a vacuum leak on the suction side. Also check the gasket between the fuel pump and the powerhead. If this gasket got misplaced during a fuel pump inspection, you will have metal to metal contact, there will be a vacuum leak so the fuel pump will not function. I suspect it is so to insulate the fuel pump from the heat of the block, thereby prevent vapor lock when the motor warms up. You can easily check the fuel pump operation by removing the hose at the carburetor, pull the starter rope and see if gas comes out the hose while the motor is turning over. As an alternate to the fuel pump, you could also take an empty 1 quart oil bottle, make a fuel line adapter that fits the cap, remove the fuel line from the carburetor and using a short fuel line, connect the bottle of fuel to the carburetor inlet fitting. Hang it above the motor so you have gravity feed which does not need a fuel pump. This will give you some indication if the problem may be in the existing fuel system. I have one of these made up and use it often.
The fuel pump is powered by a pulse connection to the upper cylinder on these motors. So it is a totally pneumatic pulse operating the mechanical diaphragm inside the pump, with no wires or push rods involved. If you want a better test, temporarily tee a fuel pressure gage in the pump outlet line and run the motor at various speeds. That will not only test the pump, but detect other problems such as clogged filters, air leaks, etc. Some of these gages are cheap and usually combined with a vacuum gage. Teeing it into the line ahead of the pump will also detect restrictions between there and the tank as a vacuum test. Another method to determine if the fuel pump is bad without the engine running, unscrew the 2 pump screws from the engine and pump the primer bulb.
Инструкции к лодочным моторам EVINRUDE
If ANY gas comes out of the little vacuum hole on the back of of the pump, then the diaphragm is ruptured. In this case with a slightly damaged diaphragm, the motor may still operate, but fuel can be sucked into the cylinder through the pulse connection hole on the block and cause the upper cylinder to flood. You can pull the rope until your arm gets tired but it refuses to start. Wait an hour and it wills start, only to repeat the process. The spark plugs will always be wet, as the engine is flooded. On the motor shown in the photo below, the owner had lack of power problems even after all apparent avenues were covered. Compression was on both cylinders, carburetor was cleaned more than once. Fuel was mixedbut there was an excessive amount of black oil coming from the relief holes. What was found that the fuel pump had a leak in the diaphragm and was also pumping an excessive amount of fuel directly into the crankcase, which settled into the bottom cylinder and was subsequently going out that cylinders exhaust port and then into the exhaust housing of the motor. Fuel pump diaphragm was ruptured. These older OMC small square type fuel pumps are rather cantankerous to repair and make them function afterwards. The reason is that they are so delicate and invariably, you miss getting some of the springs or valves in right.
You may notice that in the parts lists, the early ones do not show a repair kit for them. The later kits for this same small size pump will fit, it is just that the early bodies do not have the later style index tabs on them which aids in reassembly instructions in the kit. So you can really use the new kit in the old pumps, you will need to be sure that the diaphragms go back the same as the originals were.
Лодочный мотор Evinrude 9.9 4-х тактный
To be sure you get the body parts aligned back right, use a felt marking pen to mark across the the side of the pump, identifying which came from where. On these carburetors, there is a neoprene threaded gasket in the carburetor that acts as a seal. A repair kit has a new one, replace it when doing a repair job. If you are not doing a repair kit job and need to get a better seal, then you could smear some HEAVY chassis grease on and around the threads. Now just because you have fuel to carburetor and on into the engine, spark and compression is OK, there is another item in the equation that is important with that being air. One thing also to consider how far are you trying to draw the fuel? This could also lead to hard starting of a cold engine if the fuel line vacuum has bled off. Another thing is to check the fuel. Disconnect fuel line fitting from motor and take it off the fuel line, slosh your gas tank a few times and immediately pump some fuel into a glass container. Does it smell old like varnish? Is there water or trash in the container? If so, dump it and clean the tank good then put in fresh new mix. Also check the screen in your fuel pump. Clean the carburetor again. Then clean out all fuel lines in motor. I had a reader send me his discovery. He was working on an small older OMC motor, but found that the varnished carburetor float was so water logged that it would not function.
He carefully removed the brass clip from the cork float and Micro waved the float to see if the water would be driven out of the cork. He was able to re-attach the brass clip to the cork, and it did the job, getting him going again. Another item to consider has the motor just been rebuilt and this is the first attempt to start it? This in essence totally stops any fuel from getting into the engine. If you are having significant trouble getting it started the first time after a number of years of it sitting, get a 5 dollar spray can of starting fluid to give it 1 or 2 jet sprays into the breather which could help give it a boost and will not damage the motor. If you run the motor on only starting fluid, then you could likely seize a piston as there is no lubricant in this fluid. If you need that, then get a oil Plews can full of mixed fuel and pump fuel in that way. Some were air cooled, but still needed water to cool the exhaust housing, keeping it from burning the paint. The water intake may be located in numerous different locations in the lower unit depending on the manufacturer. Now after 50 years, there seems to be many Do It Yourselfers who are new to outboards and do not understand this system, who put the motor in a small garbage can, but take the prop off so it will not cut the can. This may allow your motor to run, but not for an extensive amount of time because of the now underwater exhaust bubbling in the can, which disrupts any water flow because of a lot of air bubbles up into the pump. If there was an aftermarket water intake attachment, they are now long extinct, so use a large enough barrel, or attach it to the boat and put it in the water for a test. If you can not achieve a high RPM in a barrel, with the prop on this can sometimes be attributed to the engine smoking badly in a barrel which is essentially so much smoke exhaust fumes that the motor in the confined area of a test barrel that the motor is trying to re-breathe the exhaust, which has little oxygen left in it now.
To test for this, remove the top cowling motor and see if that helps. Another situation that you may run into is that if you decarb your motor and then run it in the test barrel, you WILL have a lot of smoke. This would probably be worse than just a lot of exhaust smoke. Put an electric fan near and see if that helps. This may sound stupid, but have you actually pumped the fuel line primer bulb until it becomes hard, thereby pumping fuel into the carburetor? I know two boaters who always complained that their motors were hard starting, but they never pumped the primer bulb. One said someone told him that you should not have to. Yah, be sure to listen you those barstool mechanics. If you just start pulling the starter rope, you will have to pull it MANY times for the non-running motor to suck enough fuel into the carburetor to get it to start. Also we are assuming that you have already read and applied 2 pertaining to fuel in this article.
Обзор подвесных моторов фирмы «Эвинруд»/«Джонсон»
Another very likely possibility is that the twist grip throttle is not rotated far enough to the high speed side to pull fuel from the carburetor into the engine. This is covered extensively above. Possibly you may even pull the spark plugs, clean or replace them. Or if you have a post 87 motor, the cable linkage may be out of adjustment. This can be that the plastic ball coupler end on the cable needs to be screwed either in or out to be more compatible with the stators position. There is also a plastic threaded sleeve on the end of the cable sheathing that screws into the lower cowling pan, that may need adjustment. The one most common problem with hard cold starting, if the motor is in reasonably good running condition, can probably be contributed to someone unfamiliar with motors, who just gets into the boat, pulls the starter rope and goes fishing. And the carburetor idle adjustments are not set for running but usually set more for trolling. In actual use with the motor strictly set for lake trolling the fisherman is prone to adjust the idle jet lower than it is actually designed for. When you are adjusting this timing and idle jet for slow trolling, you will be doing so while the motor is warm and running. Then when the motor cools down, things are going to be slightly different. What happens then is that in the cold starting mode, the motor does not get enough fuel, you have to choke it, pull more times on the starter rope to get enough fuel into the cylinders for it to fire. One thing you may do in this case is to after you have adjusted it for your trolling speed is to then pull the knob straight forward and off the carburetor idle shaft, reposition the idle knob to position the pointer straight down then push it back on. Then when you go to start it, you twist this knob counterclockwise all the way up about 90 degrees till it bumps. This should give you more fuel to start, then you can reset it to your known trolling position later. Getting into a worse case engine scenario which would require a rebuild, you may have worn piston skirts.
Here you can have somewhat good compression but the engine has no vacuum to pull the fuel in. A warm piston expands some and makes a better seal on the skirt. You can usually get it to start by squirting fuel into the right side of the air intake breather to get it to start, after it runs a while the metal may warm up, expand, possibly could be easier to start when then warm. Compression is related here, but does not relate totally because the rings are designed to seal from the top side of the piston. Compression could be acceptable but still not related as you are comparing vacuum on the carburetor side to piston compression on the head side. The reed valves could produce the exact same situation if they are bad and not seating completely. Another problem could be leaky reed valves at the reed valve base. This could allow some of the intake fuel to be pushed back out on a firing cycle. Or someone installed the intake manifold gaskets in wrong, holding some of the reeds closed, starving the motor and if ran for any length of time could create to a starved dry cylinder resulting in a seized, blown piston. This condition will not allow sufficient vacuum on the intake stroke to pull fuel from and thru the carburetor. This is usually the top seal that is bad. Some mechanics will tell you that it is the bottom crankshaft seal, I say not really as the lower one will not have as much side pressure on it as the top seal being near the rotating flywheel as the top bearing may also be worn. They mentioned that one COLD morning, they were not able to go out to the hunting grounds because of the non-starting motor and they were on a trip a considerable distance from home. A trip of "let your fingers do the walking" thru the phone book took them to a old outboard mechanic that was operating out of his home shop. When they explained the problem, he said "OK I know what it is". When they looked him up, he retrieved a propane torch, heated the spark plugs. His explanation was that on some of these older motors the compression may be lower during the cold weather and that there just is not enough compression to fire the fuel at the plugs with them being that cold. Pull both spark plugs and check the compression. A good compression reading for a used 9. Now be advised that these rope start motors do not spin the motor over real fast so the compression will be less than if you try it with a electric start motor. There may be about a 15 difference between rope and electric start motor. For a rope start motor, you need to pull the rope as if you were mad at it, not those love pat pulls.
You may get a higher reading if instead you use a rope wrapped around the flywheel more purchase on the outer rim and no gear reduction. Use a good screw in type automotive compression tester. You may encounter slightly different readings even when using 2 different testers, even if they are the same make and model. Twist the throttle handle to wide open to open the throttle plate to give it as much a chance as possible to breathe and allow optimum suction. Ground out both the plugs so as to not damage the electronics of the CDI ignition, or leave your spark tester hooked up. Фирменная краска получила запатентованное название DeepGuard Paint. Система охлаждения мотора промывается пресной водой. В комплектацию входит опорный рычаг для буксировки, а также предохранительная секция, которая является дополнительным элементом защиты от коррозии. В систему охлаждения встроен датчик подачи воды — это означает, что оператор всегда будет знать о состоянии системы. К тому же, в угоду безопасности компания Evinrude оснастила мотор ограничителем наклона, который предотвращает контакт корпуса мотора и лодки. Двигатель будет востребован среди частных пользователей, а также коммерческих структур. Силовая установка подойдет и начинающим предпринимателям, которым нужна приемлемая производительность и бесперебойная работа. По сравнению с конкурентами модель Evinrude 9. Перед запуском в массовое производство мотор Evinrude 9. Но не смотря на это, на первом этапе эксплуатации владельцу потребуется выполнить обкатку изделия. Система, подающая звуковые и визуальные сигналы предупреждения о перегреве мотора, низком уровне масла, отсутствии масла, содержании воды в топливе и осуществляющая проверку двигателя, входит в стандартную комплектацию всех подвесных моторов марки Evinrude. Только моторы Evinrude оснащены системой предупреждения об отсутствии масла. Кроме того, в моделях, оснащенных системой предупреждения и ограничения скорости при перегреве, центральный компьютер в случае перегрева мотора производит снижение числа оборотов в минуту, что обеспечивает его дополнительную защиту от повреждения. Система зажигания с впрыском с цифровым управ-лением. Обеспечивает общее зажигание и предупреждает загрязнение свечей зажигания. Данная высокоэффективная система обеспечивает множественные, длинные искры при каждом обороте коленвала, воспламеняющие топливную смесь.
Снял ногу, прокладка порвалась,подскажите возможно ли использовать герметик или только паронит,и трубка подачи воды болтаетца в корпусе, это так надо или как то закрепляетца. Я сверлил в блоке, сделай фотку блока с левой стороны и я покажу где точно. Два миллиметра это много для контрольки. Трубка болтаться не должна, у тебя уплотнительные кольца пересохли,поменяй уплотнения,подбери из резиновых шлангов. И с болтами аккуратней все дюймовые. Проще моторов я не видел. Ремкомплект помпы Johnson, Evinrude. Корпус помпы, стакан, Johnson, Evinrude. Другие детали помп охлаждения Johnson, Evinrude. Детали топливной системы Johnson, Evinrude. Клинья для подвесных моторов. Детали помп охлаждения и крыльчатки являются довольно значимыми в системе двигателя. Только моторы Evinrude оснащены системой предупреждения об отсутствии масла. Кроме того, в моделях, оснащенных системой предупреждения и ограничения скорости при перегреве, центральный компьютер в случае перегрева мотора производит снижение числа оборотов в минуту, что обеспечивает его дополнительную защиту от повреждения. Система зажигания с впрыском с цифровым управ-лением. Обеспечивает общее зажигание и предупреждает загрязнение свечей зажигания. Данная высокоэффективная система обеспечивает множественные, длинные искры при каждом обороте коленвала, воспламеняющие топливную смесь. В наличии Под заказ. Особенности двигателей Evinrude Производитель представляет особенно широкую линейку лодочных моторов, что позволяет купить силовой агрегат для абсолютно любых задач. И все это разнообразие построено на главных принципах продукции бренда, реализованных в каждой модели: